A bespoke garment is a unique piece based on individual taste. To get an idea of the kind of jumper you would like, please look at my guide to the basics of Fair Isle knitwear; here you can explore the styles, patterns, details, colours, and how to measure yourself for the perfect bespoke item.
This is a bespoke service
Every garment is individually tailored for a perfect fit and hand finished using individual and traditional techniques to achieve the perfect look.
The order form includes a basic guide to garment styles. We can discuss individual features such as roll neck, shawl neck, high neck, shoulder fasteners, style fittings, as well as scarves, hand or leg warmers, during your consultation.
Shortly after receiving your order, I'll contact you to make an appointment for the consultation and request your measurements. I always recommend that you familiarise yourself with the knitwear styles, patterns, details and wool colours before your appointment.
When the consultation process finishes, the design process starts. I'll send you three images of swatches based on the consultation process for you to choose from or give feedback.
Once the overall design is agreed and I'm ready to start knitting your garment I'll send you a payment request. The sizing and detail processes start on receipt of your payment.
When your garment is ready I'll give you an expected delivery date and you'll receive an email confirming dispatch.
Sorry, due to high demand our order book is closed until further notice.
This is all about the shape of your garment. Below is a guide to Fair Isle knitwear elementary styles.
The round-neck or crew neck jumper first appeared in the 1930s and is loose fitting with a sporty shape. It's the base for roll necks too and can have tapered fitting with fitted sleeves for a more contemporary look.
The V-neck jumpers appeared in the late nineteenth century; they're tapered or loose fitting with a classic shape. The 1920s saw the emergence of Fair Isle jumpers with V-neck lines and drop shoulders as fashion items.
The fisherman jumpers are a traditional eighteenth-century working garment originally worn by fishermen. These jumpers are shapeless with a high or slash neck, shoulder fasteners, tapered fitting, drop shoulders and an underarm gusset for comfort.
Cardigans first appeared in the nineteenth century; they're a practical garment that can be opened along the front. The round-neck cardigan combines the practicality of this garment with the sporty style of the round-neck jumper.
Cardigans first appeared in the nineteenth century and are practical garments that can be opened along the front. The V-neck cardigan combines the practicality of this garment with the classic style of a V-neck jumper.
The sleeveless idea is thought to have appeared in England around the mid-nineteenth century as an undergarment for formal attire. The round-neck sleeveless jumper is a modern interpretation that became extremely popular in the 1970s.
The sleeveless idea is also thought to have appeared in England around the mid-nineteenth century as an undergarment with formal attire. Again, the V-neck sleeveless jumper is a modern interpretation that has become a classic piece of menswear.
Round-neck sleeveless Cardigan
The sleeveless cardigan evolved from the original vest and became the basic part of country attire. The round-neck cardigan combines a modern design with the practicality of a cardigan – it's a timeless favourite.
The fisherman's kep is the traditional Fair Isle hat worn by the island men and bartered with passing ships during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. The kep is perhaps the garment that made Fair Isle knitting known around the world; it's a long hat with a wide rib and a turn-up headband for extra warmth.
The long hat is a simpler version of the kep that dates back to nineteenth century. The original long hat had a hemmed headband, but yours can be also knitted with just a small rib.
The complex origins and influences of Fair Isle’s traditional patterns may never be fully understood. Perhaps it was the long winter nights and hardship that spawned such spectacular creativity and timeless, infinitely variable, patterns.
The large size patterns are called Muckle Flooers in Fair Isle and are perhaps the oldest-known Fair Isle patterns; they are found in knitted pieces dating back to 1850. Some museum pieces show the patterns worked all over and sometimes combined with the medium size patterns. Examples of 'Fair Isle' patterns from the Baltic are also large patterns.
The medium size patterns are divided into two groups, the traditional oxo and the open patterns; in Fair Isle they are called Fivey Flooers and Nine Geeng Flooers respectively; they appear in some nineteenth-century garments, combined with large-size patterns. The medium size patterns were used at the end of the nineteenth century and throughout the twentieth century to the present day. In the late nineteenth century they were mostly used all over; in the twentieth century they appeared combined with the small-size patterns.
The small patterns are called 'grunds' on Fair Isle; in the nineteenth century they were used in children's garments, at the edge of garments and between large patterns in traditional keps. The small-size pattern became very popular during the 1920s and 1930s, especially when combined with medium-size patterns.
A detail can change the overall look of a garment or the way it fits; sleeves, necks, cuffs and waistbands determine the garment's style. A sport look, for example, will use ribbed cuffs and waistband combined with a loose fitting. In contrast, a more classic look will use thin-ribbed cuffs and a waistband with a tapered fitting.
The single-rib neck is made using a thin rib; it creates a subtle finish that makes an elegant garment.
The folded-rib neck is made by folding over a rib; it creates a robust neck that's ideal for a 'sporty looking' garment.
The high neck is made with a single knit piece or a hem; it was the traditional neck for fishermen's garments in Shetland and Fair Isle.
The hemmed cuff is made by folding the end of the sleeve; it can be wide or narrow and creates a relaxed look.
The ribbed cuff is made by a rib at the end of the sleeve; it can be wide or narrow and creates a sportive look.
The chess-pattern cuff is made by knitting a chess pattern in contrasting colours and finishing with a small rib at the end of the sleeve.
The hemmed waistband is made by folding the end of the body panel; it can be wide or narrow and creates a relaxed look with a loose fitting.
The ribbed waistband is made by a rib at the end of the body panel; it can be wide or narrow and creates a sportive look with a tapered fitting.
The chess-pattern waistband is made by knitting a chess pattern in contrasting colours and finishing with a small rib at the end of the body panel; it creates a relaxed look with a tapered fitting.
The most complex of the sleeves is knitted to shape the shoulder with a tapered fitting.
The easiest of the sleeves is knitted straight and drops from the shoulder line to create a loose fitting.
Shetland wool produced in Shetland gained Protected Geographical Status with Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) classification as 'Native Shetland Wool' in 2011. It also became the first non-food product in the UK to receive such status. The wonderful range of natural colours and high quality of Shetland fleece make Shetland wool one of the best wools available.
*Organic Wool - Shetland Organic wool brings the best out of the very fine quality of the wool with its handle, bounce and insulation properties from native Shetland sheep, born and bred in Shetland.
Every bespoke garment is knitted based on individual measurements for perfect size and shape.
- Chest size Measure around widest part of the chest.
- Across shoulder/front Measure from shoulder to shoulder.
- Upper arm Measure around the bicep.
- Wrist Measure around the knuckles with the hand in a fist.
- Length Measure from the nape of the neck to the desired length.
- Arm length 1 Measure from the shoulder to the wrist.
- Hips Measure around the widest part of the hips.
- Armhole Measure around the shoulder close to the armpit.
- Across shoulder/back Measure from shoulder to shoulder
- Arm length 2 Measure, with arm at 90 degrees, from the armpit to desired length.
- Neck Measure around the lower part of the neck.